A Taste of Rajasthan

Plunge into the maze of narrow lanes in Old Delhi, previously known as Shahjahanabad, the capital of the Mughal dynasty. Weave between sleeping dogs, dawdling cows and speedy rickshaws, and marvel at the awe-inspiring architecture of the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid (India’s largest mosque). Flood your senses at Chandni Chowk, the city’s busiest market, then fill your stomach with some of the country’s finest street food.

Head to New Delhi, India’s current capital, where tree-lined avenues of neoclassical architecture give way to ramshackle neon lights and historic sites like the 16th-century Humayun’s Tomb. Meet some of the city’s locals, including members of a multi-generational community of washer-men who do laundry for hotels, hospitals and residents, and see the city from a unique perspective with a community guiding project employing young adults who were once street children.

Watching the sunset over the rose-tinted buildings of Jaipur is a beautiful sight, and one you can even see by hot-air balloon, if that’s your thing! The city itself is one of contrasts and contradictions, splendor and chaos, history and modernity. As Rajasthan’s state capital, it holds a certain gravitas. Stretching out from that magnificent fortified interior is a busy, sprawling cityscape, full of crowded streets, busy traffic and hectic life. The Old Town feels a little more sedate (but only a little) thanks to its heritage atmosphere and gentler market bustle.

Navigate the traffic and winding streets via rickshaw, powered by the fabulous “pink ladies” from the not-for-profit Pink City Rickshaw Company who provide supportive employment opportunities for women within the city. Ride between the city’s historic sites, including the gleaming Govind Dev Ji temple and the magnificent City Palace (still the home of regional royalty), and head for the winding alleyways of Hawa Mahal to feast on the city’s best street food snacks and watch the district’s artisans at work.

The heart of any trip should include exploring some lesser-known delights. In Rajasthan, that might mean visiting a small town like Bundi, the ‘City of Stepwells’, with its narrow streets lined with Brahmin-blue houses, resplendent palace and imposing fort. Or maybe taking a turn off the main highways to visit a peaceful rural community, staying in one of the many forts and palaces, and hunting lodges, which have been beautifully maintained and restored to welcome travellers? In the past, these regal residences provided people in the surrounding areas with protection and income, and many of the current owners (often descendants of the original ruling families) are encouraging visitors to continue this age-old relationship.

Whether you choose the Rawla Narlai hunting lodge, nestled in the Aravalli hills, the elegant Shahpura Bagh, stately and modern Dev Shree Deogarh, or atmospheric Fort Barli, which is proudly run by the 16th generation of the original family owners, you’ll experience the thrill of staying somewhere rich with history. Settle in amid the towers, courtyards, carvings, lattice work, mirrored glass and bright textiles, and enjoy the pleasure and privilege visiting the surrounding communities to experience the rhythms of everyday rural life.

As somewhere to end an adventure in India, you can’t do much better than the ethereal lakeside city of Udaipur. Perhaps most famously, the city is home to a hotel which appears to float magically in the middle of the lake – frequently referred to as one of the most romantic spots in India, and the glamorous setting for a Bond film. Udaipur has a quality unlike anywhere else, and is a top contender for our favourite city in the region. Its dual lakes shimmer in the clear light. Cycle around Fateh Sagar Lake in the early hours, and take a cruise on Lake Pichola at sunset.

For those who haven’t had their fill of extravagant architecture, Udaipur’s City Palace is the largest complex in the state. This is a great place to slow your pace and wander the narrow streets passing temples, ornately decorated havelis and colourful bazaars selling everything from jewellery and traditional miniature paintings to spices and clay pots.