Kandy
Much has been written about Kandy: its revered shrine, its festivals, and its status as the last bulwark against invading forces before falling to the British in 1815. This old capital, combining ancient and modern, is the island’s second city, though its low-rise buildings and rolling green hills give it a small-town feel. It’s a place of culture, religious reverence and tropical gardens, with a central location that makes it an ideal stopover before taking the train deep into tea country.
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Three things to do in Kandy
Temple of the Tooth
Without question, Kandy’s premium draw is also one of the leading Buddhist sites anywhere in the world: a temple built around the relic of the Buddha’s tooth, which was smuggled from India over 1,700 years ago. At scheduled puja times, the casket holding it (or rather 7 caskets, stacked inside one another) is displayed to a background of atmospheric drumming. The shrine itself is lavish, with lashings of gold, richly carved doors and pillars, ornate decorations and elaborate paintings. The aesthetics continue outside the temple, which forms part of a larger royal palace of meticulously preserved, striking white buildings perched on the shore of a serene lake with greenery all around. A special place indeed.
Walk Kandy’s ‘wild’ side
Although at first glance the traffic might be a little off-putting, there are a number of quieter places in and around Sri Lanka’s second city that offer a rewarding hour or two of wandering. Begin with the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens, seeded by the Sinhalese kings of old but owing their present format to a succession of 19th-century British Colonial botanists. If the scenes look familiar, they were largely inspired by the world famous Kew Gardens in London. Head back into the centre to while away an hour circumnavigating Kandy’s central lake, or if you are looking for something a little wilder, set back from the Temple of the Tooth you’ll find Udawattakele Sanctuary. A walk along the densely-forested paths of this calm oasis might bring you close to other local residents such as wild boar, deer, monkeys and snakes, along with over 80 species of bird – not bad for what is essentially a mid-city jungle!
Food, glorious food
Food is an integral part of visiting Sri Lanka and although ‘rice and curry’ is Sri Lanka’s national dish and can be enjoyed all over the country, Kandy is a great place to seek out a local restaurant to sit down and savour the feast. Soak up the flavours of the variety of curries, from colourful and fragrant to deliciously sticky and sour, and sample the many mouth-watering little side dishes – coconut or onion sambal, a creamy dhal, a side of jackfruit – it’s likely to be different every time. A great way to learn more about the rich culture whilst sampling some amazing dishes is on a food tour through the city. Kicking off with a visit to a food market empowering women, you can sample an array of snacks before heading for crispy dosa filled with potato and warming spices. Refresh with exotic fruits and soya ice cream, then end with a cold drink at a colonial hotel. You’ll be accompanied by a local guide who knows all the best spots and dishes to try.
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Inspiring experiences and places to stay…
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